Part of cookware maker All-Clad's foray into kitchen electrics is the 4-Square Belgian Waffle Maker, exclusively available at Williams-Sonoma. A sturdy, heavy machine, this waffle maker is pricy, but makes thick, light waffles that are crispy on the outside and airy and tender inside.
The machine has a temperature dial, lights indicating the power and when it reaches temperature, and a beep signal when the maker is heated and when a waffle is finished cooking. The cooking plates are cast-aluminum and nonstick, although the instructions still recommend brushing them with oil.
The waffle maker emits steam while cooking; in fact, it's designed to release steam from the waffles to create the light, crisp texture. The deep square pockets in the inch-thick waffles also help to keep these waffles crisp; they didn't even seem to get soggy after sitting in the oven.
The one thing I don't like about this appliance is the drip trough. The back of the waffle grid is cut away to provide a runoff channel into a removable plastic trough designed to catch batter overflow. Even so, this makes a terrible mess and will likely need to be emptied if you're making more than a few waffles. What's more, the part of the waffle along the runoff didn't seem to cook as evenly as the rest of the waffle, and I had to cut away the gummy part of the waffle that spilled over. I found the drip tray messy to use and to clean (not to mention, difficult to remove from the hot waffle maker when it filled up before I'd finished cooking).
A little recipe book comes with the waffle maker. My favorite was the recipe for Yeasted Waffles, the batter for which is made the night before.
At $199.95 (or $179.95 for the 2-Square version), the All-Clad Waffle Maker is a splurge. But if you make waffles every weekend, this waffler might make some of the best you've ever tasted.
